Warrior like Jewelry

As always, my love for jewelry brought me on a trip to Zoya, one of my favorite boutiques in Mumbai that carries amazing clothing and accessories. They carry jewelry from some of my favorite designers like Suhani Pitte. Check out some the pieces from their store.

Embroidery- a one of a kind art form

For everyone who adore and cherish the intricate art of embroidery, there is always an inherent understanding that the shawl/stole/purse or wall hanging that is purchased is most likely the only piece that exists. As I am moving more deeply into my endeavors in the fashion world, I am realizing that all embroidery is a one of a kind art form. Even work like Kantha, which has been used in our collections, is very difficult to replicate. The reason? Most of the women who make this embroidery use it as a form of expression. They like to explore their skills as a means of telling their stories and each artisan is unique in their handicraft.

This creates some problems for us in the fashion world who want to proliferate this art all over the world. Common practice of duplication is not possible and many use innovative methods to generalize designs. One such organization is Qasab in Bhuj. They help develop their artisans by providing signature cushion covers and handbags that are embroidered in variety of ways. On my visit to their office today, I saw all the women busy cutting up embroidery to create a melange of colors for an order of 800 wall hangings. "Embroidery for 800 pieces is almost impossible to execute in a short span of time", says Meenaben, one of the main organizers for the group, " We had to creatively make artwork using existing embroidered fabrics to ensure the order is executed fast". She is one of the few people in Gujarat who has been encouraging artisans to execute domestic and international orders in a timely manner in order to ensure repeat orders and economic stability.

Seeing this wonderful organization in action really made me think about the various techniques of embroidering and how we can make the fabrics more accessible and usable in the fashion industry. The only answer is to create haute couture or one of a kind lines that will be fit a select customer base. At Avni, we really want to explore this as an exclusive collection for customers that value individual freedom of expression. We also hope to move the artisans back to more environmentally friendly methods that were traditionally used such as natural dyes and organic cotton.

Natural Snakeskin?

Check out this wonderful texture created by the talented people at our natural dyeing unit. Its created by using a method of tie dyeing called "rouching". The satin silk fabric is first dyed in the base color of Chukra bheda, which is a leafy green plant that looks a lot like spinach and is used for herbal remedies in Ayurveda. Once the base color is done the fabric is then tied up and dyed in a second color of pomegranate skin. The resulting combination is a wonderful snakeskin like texture that has a natural sheen because of the satin base.

Watch out for this texture in our Fall'11 Warrior Princess collection that is currently under the works.

Jacket with Scarf attached

So this is one of my favorite designs that I happen to wear all the time in the early Fall/late Spring and in San Francisco (if you know how SF's perpetual fall weather feels like). I wanted to give people who follow Avni's journey to let me know what they think about a scarf attached to Jacket concept. My personal opinion is that its different yet warm and comfortable. More for hanging out in the crisp, cool air. I usually wear it when I don't have to take it off.

It's Pomegranate Skin!!

For those who don't know the philosophy of our natural dyes, its all about using waste materials such as onion peel, pomegranate skin, insect secretion or herbs such as Harda, Basil. They actually don't use food that can be consumed, such as beets, or actual insects/animal dyes such as cochineal.

Enjoy one of my all time favorites and most widely used in brand Avni- pomegranate skin.This dye is very versatile and can create grays/blacks and olive green. Enjoy some of our designs featuring this gorgeous dye.

Lac- An ancient Natural Dye

As natural dyes are gaining some momentum all over the globe, I am starting to realize that each designer that uses natural dyes has his/her own perspective on the colors and raw materials they use. For example, Mr.Larkin, a California based design house, uses waste from grocery stores and flowers to create colors. My suppliers use herbs and ancient techniques that have been part of Indian tradition for centuries. As I explore more into the world of natural dyes, I wanted to bring forth the first natural color that caught my attention (and not only because of its vibrant hues) and curiosity- Lac.

Lac is actually a secretion by certain insects found in Asia and Mexico. The residue is collected from the branches, then its crushed and cleaned after which it can be powdered for dyeing. It's even used for making jewelery in some cases. In ancient India, Lac was used as a dye and as a skin cosmetic. Today, a lot of synthetic options are fast replacing this ancient coloring method.

Our brand Avni uses this dye to create beautiful wine or pink colored clothing that are accentuated with the various textures that are our core signature. Enjoy some of our designs in this beautiful natural color.

My muse: The warrior princess

I have been thinking about the Fall'11 collection since June of this year. Usually for me, designing is all in the head. I get a vision that usually stems from something I have seen or am nostalgic about. My Fall'11 muse is a warrior princess, almost like Lena Heady in the movie 300, but more warrior like. I started to analyze my muse, from her character, her strength and finally every aspect of her portrayal. I began the process by researching all kinds of pictures and portrayals of warrior princesses, starting from Valkyries to Cleopatra and even the movie 300 itself. Once the vision is formed, I start pretty much obsessing about every small detail. I even started thinking about making a movie that would showcase the collection in a theatrical style setting (something that is being worked currently).

After much analysis the actual designs start to take shape. I knew I wanted to play with pleats and structure this time. I was thinking about my Bharat Natyam days and how the fan in the costume has such a striking shape and look. I wanted to use the so called "fan" in different ways and forms. I spent days designing and color coordinating about 25-30 designs. Finally, my product is starting to take shape. Next step, fabrics and color finalization.

Enjoy some of the pics that have inspired the designing process.

My First Fashion Show

Hi everyone,

I will always remember Sept9th 2010. It was the evening when my brand Avni was launched in a spectacular fashion show at the Liberty Hotel, Boston. Apart from anxious evenings, panic stricken days, and the usual flurry of emotions that had occupied me since I heard I was chosen to participate, it was one of my most prized events of all time.

The fashion show event was smooth and perfect to most observers, but to me it was all about fixing all the last minute problems. Fittings were done an hour before and obviously not all of my clothing is meant to fit a size0 or 00 model. My mother-in-law, Mini, was a godsend as she tacked and pinned all the extra fabric to ensure the look was perfect. Once all the clothes were perfected, the show was about to start and there I was stuck in the elevator that decided to malfunction at the last second. After much scramble and panic, I managed to be back on time to enjoy the wonderful models execute the perfect look and feel. Luckily, I did not have to worry about PR. My husband, aunt and most of our friends did a fabulous job and ensured everyone had information about the clothes and what they stand for. All in all, a huge success. Now its waiting and watching for the press and buzz to continue.

Enjoy the beautiful pics taken by Todd Lee and Dimonika Bray.

Avni launching at Liberty on Sept9th

Hi everyone,

Stay tuned for the launch and fun party to follow on Sept 9th.

This road is less traveled by....

Hi everyone,

So, apart from marketing and incessant travel that has become my life, everyday brings strength to one important reality. The journey of an entrepreneur is alone. This does not mean no support from friends and family. It means, no matter what, you have to believe in yourself. People will doubt your beliefs, strengths, and passion. Some over monetary issues, some over downfalls that may come along the way. Even your own family may sometimes question your decisions, the key is to stay calm and have the strength to weather each storm. The vision should always remain steady and strong, in spite of everything. The day the vision starts to waiver, that's the day your business will become very difficult. This is especially true in startup phase (as I am).

For all you starting entrepreneurs needing strength and motivation, always remember Robert Frost's famous poem:

"TWO roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth; 5

Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."

May your road truly make a difference to you and the lives you will touch.

Inspirations

Hi,
Wanted to give you some beautiful pictures that have inspired and rejuvenated me over the last 10 days. These are from my trip to Alaska, and being a self made designer is all about finding those few special moments where passion and creativity flow through your soul.

My new color obsession is black and white with a splash of red. Wonder where that came from:)

The Trials and Tribulations of being an Entreprenuer

Its been about 3 months since my last blog post. Now, a lot of people may wonder what happened to the travels and sartorial commentary on Indian fashion industry. The truth of the matter is, it was time to get started on my own brand of clothing that is about to launch in the U.S.

In the last 3 months, I have been getting my product and designs ready, figured business administration needs such as trademark, registration and even which accounting software to use (oh yes, a self employed person has to do everything- literally:)), got samples, networked, traveled and went through the many pitfalls of sales that I had not even imagined would be a challenge. I guess I have been busy trying to get my brand Avni of the ground.

I thought I would take a moment today to educate entrepreneurs or wanna be entrepreneurs about some trials and tribulations of starting a business. I am still going through most of these on a day to day basis, but am learning to work more efficiently as a result.

1)Working for oneself: Now, this may seem like the best thing in the world, let me tell you it is tougher than being in meetings in the corporate world all day. You have to keep your self self motivated, engaged and most importantly- not bored. Yes, you may love what you do and the vision is so clear in your head, but being by yourself all day, everyday has so many repercussions on the mind that it will take monumental efforts to get out of feeling lethargic. Take frequent strolls outside for fresh air, listen to music, use café as your “office” and most importantly keep the vision clear and in front of your mind at all times. If life gets too frustrating alone, get happy hour with friends a couple of times a week to blow off some steam.

2)The buck stops with you: You are the only one who can make a decision for your fledgling company. There are numerous times when you will question decisions and sometimes even wish you had someone else making it for you, but at the end of the day each decision you make will determine the direction and fate of your vision. (Believe me , I have begged and even fought with my husband on decisions that I felt he should help with because fear of making decisions that could be wrong is so high). No one and nothing can have more passion about your vision other than you and you have to trust that, even if the decision is wrong. Ultimately it is the learning that will help you succeed.

3)Fear of sales: Don’t ever for one second believe you will not be scared and anxious. You will be having nervous twitches and sleepless nights regarding sales. I decided to do it the easy way by just emailing people and maybe calling after (even that was a fear that made me procrastinate), but obviously with all this negative energy nothing worked. Finally, I had to haul myself out and face buyers face to face, so I started cold calling in person. It is LIBERATING. Don’t believe me? Well, how about this. Close your eyes and think that this is going to be the day that you will exchange the most wonderful positive energy with someone. Whether you will have sales or not, they will remember you and as you get better at it, will have good conversations and you will get publicity and some leads. I wear my own designs and walk into stores and it makes a huge difference to me and to them.

4)You are the one person show: Everything from printing, to accounting, to even figuring dry cleaning needs is part of the job. Being self employed is not glamorous and certainly not easy. I had to read books on trademark filing, pattern making, accounting and at the same time start thinking about my next collection all around the same time frame. Its multi-tasking on steroids and one has to be the jack of all trades to get it right. Also, if you are as anal and controlling as I am, you probably want to do everything yourself to start.

5)Breaks are important: Now, you may think you have to work extra hard for yourself because you really are on the go 24 hours a day. It’s true that there is no substitute for hard work, but breaks and stabilizing your stress and mind is as important if not more. If you are stressed out and continue working- the work will not be good and you will feel miserable. Take a break when you need to- could be middle of the day or evening or weekend. Initially, I had this constant urge to fill every minute of my day with thoughts of work and why I am not working more. Coming from a job where I had meetings non stop- even over lunch, I felt this constant need to be busy. Not a good way to be self-employed. Just as you were miserable in your job, you will be miserable as an entrepreneur and eventually lose sight of the vision and passion.

Well, this is some food for thought. As I mentioned before, I go through most of these trials on a day to day basis- but at the end of each day the thought of seeing my brand come to fruition is well worth it. :)

Korean Hand Embroidery

For the last 7 days I had the opportunity to take a trip to South Korea and visit few of its beautiful cities. As always, I had to find out about sources and kinds of local hand made fabrics. I came across a Museum of Korean embroidery online and had a chance to visit on my last day at Seoul. Although, the museum itself was just a large room showcasing a small collection of embroidered fabrics, it gave little information on any of them. I did happen to buy a book from the museum that was a lot more informative and I hope to find some of these hand crafted textiles in person someday.

Disappointed but not giving up yet, I happened to come across a shop selling hand embroidered accessories called Kukjae Embroidery. The shop was very small but crowded and had very neat and pretty looking embroidery on everything from small hand held mirrors to large purses. Attached are some pics of my purchases. There was a school/workshop near the shop where all these wonderful accessories were made. Unfortunately, it was too late for me to visit the workshop and see some of the hand work in action, but I am glad I found some interesting items at the store. Maybe on my next visit to South Korea I can deep dive into hand crafts from a different culture.

Accesories at Lakme Fashion Week

So continuing my rendezvous with Lakme Fashion week, I had the opportunity to check out some of the best accessories I have seen in a while. From gorgeous clutches to funky jewelry, the shows definitely took the use of accessories to a different level. Check out my purchases from two designers- Eina Ahluwalia and Suhani Pittie. Eina used a creative combination of cloth and sterling silver, while Suhani played with metal in funky ways.

More photos and descriptions on www.lakmefashionweek.co.in

Lakme Fashion Week- Mumbai

Lakme Fashion week is one of the biggest events in the fashion world in Mumbai. The status, glitz, and glamor is so integral to this event, that it attracts big fashion names and Bollywood stars to participate. This time, I had the opportunity to be an observer at a few events.

My first day, I watched the Summer/Spring collections of Abdul Halder and Digvijay Singh. Both had very different styles, Halder was all about the traditional Indian clothing and bling that goes with it, while DigVijay Singh used muted colors and complex drapings. Halder showcased mainly bridal couture but also showed intricate jackets and skirts. It was all about the bright embroidery and zari work that is such an attraction for Indian consumers. Personally, this was not my style which is more simplistic. Digvijay Singh's collection was more modern and had used natural dyes to create the beautiful colors. In spite of the modern allure such as dresses, jackets and various elements- the clothing still had a very traditional base. As was seen throughout the Fashion week, Bollywood show stoppers was another common theme that designers used for publicity. It distracted me from the garments but definitely provided higher status in the media coverage. All in all, it was obviously geared for Indian markets and for a western consumer the complexity of the clothing is not very practical.

Attached are some of my favorite looks. You can check out more photos and details at www.lakmefashionweek.co.in

The Non profit world (NGO)

On my travels to various artisans, especially in the state of Gujarat, I had to interact with the non-profit or as its known in India the NGO (non-government organization) world. The non-profit and artisan world intersect in various ways which is important for people trying to find or source artisans.

Some non profits handle everything for the artisans from marketing, manufacturing to providing for families. Shrujan and Kalaraksha are such examples. Both are in Kutch, Gujarat and both specialize in embroidered finished clothing and accessories. Shrujan has been working with the artisans for over 30 years and provides all kinds of perks such as transportation, food and even education for the children. They have developed the skill sets of various artisans to match high retail standards and helped gain good footing within India. The downside is that they do not allow direct interaction with the artisans in any way and control all outputs per their designs and direction. The retail store was extremely expensive and I found it hard to believe that they could actually sell large quantities at such high prices. Kalaraksha on the other hand insisted that anyone trying to source through them had to employ not only artisans that do embroidery, but also their workshop that created finished garments and accessories. For someone trying to create western clothing, this is daunting because the skill sets in the villages to create western attire is very limited. In spite of these cons the loyalty that the artisans have towards both organizations is very strong and no amount of money or fame would motivate them to leave. I experiences this first hand when the Soof embroidery artisan that I visited informed me that she cannot take up any external work unless she has free time from Kalaraksha.

There are other organizations such as Khamir, Qasab in Kutch and Pradhan in Bhagalpur that take a different approach. They want to empower their artisans to work directly with designers or fabric merchants. They will still act as middlemen to ensure timely and quality deliveries, but their work is more to push their artisans forward and not only their work. Attached is a video taken at Khamir where some of the weavers were working. They have even collaborated with designers in Europe to create recycled plastic mats and bags which is the innovative aspect that economically boosts people in the area.

What to expect while buying artisan fabrics?

1) Customized look- each artisan interprets the design, fabric per their perception. It is almost impossible to find 2 designs given to 2 artisans look the same. There is usually some variation ranging from minor differences in hand woven to major differences in embroidery. This results in clothing that showcases the differences in human perception and creativity beautifully.

2) More than a materialistic addition to our daily lives. Artisans spend anywhere from few days to a year or so dedicated to creating their art. There is a connection that is unique and one that they carry with them forever. Some of them have spent a lifetime protecting their art such as Rogan, which was at risk of being extinct during partition. Being a conscious consumer will provide more richness and depth to the concept of buying.

3) A learning tool to understand rural India and the history that has passed through. A lot of the art is being created by women who put in details about their struggles and daily lives. Some of the motifs, such as in Kantha, are hundreds of years old and continue to be created in order to uphold tradition and to ensure the stories of these women are not lost.

4) Proliferating the art which is being lost in our fast world. In the age of powerlooms and fast paced manufacturing, hand weaving is fast declining and has a potential of being lost forever. Currently, Banaras has seen over 50% of its weaver population lose its craftsmanship because of the power loom threats and the economic instability of the handicraft.

5) Ethical and economic aspects. There are 220 thousand handlooms still existent in India today and they support the livelihood of a million or more. Ethically and consciously keeping this art alive preserves not only history, but helps all the artisans get economically stronger.

These are some of my perceptions and I hope to create awareness so that everyone can be empowered to consume ethically and consciously. Let me know some of your, if any.
In the meantime, enjoy some of the faces that are behind these beautiful arts.

Hand woven fabrics from Kutch

The textiles and embroidery of Kutch, Gujarat are diverse and unique as you have seen through my travels. One particular art that stood out was that of hand woven wool. I had the opportunity to visit Devji Vankar, an award winning weaver whose woolen fabrics stand out for their texture and quality. He usually uses Merino wool yarn imported from Australia since the local wool is too coarse for clothing. The wool yarn is seperated using a large wodden apparatus as shown in video and dyed after for color. The last step of weaving is usually the most artistic and time consuming. Lead time for creating 5 yards can start from 7 days to 2 months depending on the intricacy of the work required. Kutch weave is very different from Banaras weave,it has a simpler look and thicker texture. The use of mirror work is also more common and is usually done by the women of the household. I can think about using these fabrics for Fall clothing such as light jackets and wrap dresses.

To give you an idea of the warmth and hospitality of Indian people, specifically in Gujarat, the artisan insisted on me having lunch with his family. It was a fun experience where I sat on the floor with the full family and enjoyed all the delicacies that were created. Even if the food is cooked for a specific number of people, the people of Gujarat will always give their guests the highest priority. It was an enjoyable and eye opening experience.

Attached is a video of his hand weaving unit and some pictures of the fabrics.

Discovering Bandhani- Part 2

During my visit to Kutch I had talked about the world of Bandhani and the women who make this intricate art of tie dye come alive. I had the opportunity to meet Naushad Khatri and his family who are involved in all aspects of making Bandhani in Bhuj. As with most other artisan fabrics, the men mainly print and dye the fabric while the women take on the art of tying. Each little dot needs to be of same consistency as the one before, and some Bandhani's are so tiny that a pin point is used to lift the fabric and tie it. Naushad has just had the honor of winning the national award for Bandhani, but the award is rightfully earned by his family members as well, as he will say so himself.

One of the myths that was shattered for me was that Bandhani is dyed with natural colors and no chemicals are used as was done hundreds of years ago. This myth is still all over the internet, but unfortunately it is not true. Today the use of chemicals is highly prevalent and one will not find truly natural Bandhani anymore. One of my goals is to bring back natural dyeing to the world of Bandhani to make it truly eco-friendly and ethical.

Attached is a video of the true art of tying Bandhani. I have also attached the current printing mechanism. Historically the use of block prints was prevalent but in order to increase speed the faster approach of printing was adopted.