Avni

Trade Show Basics

2011-03-22T13:20:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone,

Last month has been a huge leap for our little brand. We decided to participate at two major industry trade shows in Las Vegas and in New York. For those of you who dont know much about trade shows, they are a huge gathering of buyers, press, designers from all over the country. There is good exposure, good contacts and sales that may not have happened otherwise.

This industry gathering obviously requires a lot of prep. To start, the money invested is pretty high. Be ready for a 5K investment/show which would include fees, booth setup, and even small things like hangars. This means you must be sure of the show you are participating in will give returns. Visit all if possible and ensure you understand the layout and the feel of the designers and attendees. Trade show venues charge for everything, I had to pay $95 just to have an outlet in our booth in Las Vegas. They will invite you to do promos (which obviously cost more)like being on a TV network or having a display, so pick and chose well.

Once you have chosen your show, you may need to apply to get in. Ensure your samples are ready and return shipping is paid for when you send everything to the committee. Usually the response is quick and I did not have any issues with samples that were returned. Once accepted, start prepping for the show including mailing lists, booth setup and selling.

Booth setup is another aspect that needs to be carefully thought through prior to show. You only have a few hours to set everything the day before. We planned our layout, furniture, fabrics etc for weeks prior to the show. Also be ready to improvise once at the venue, lot of things will seem different when you are there in person. The key is to make it inviting, open, and ensure there is adequate clothing that will catch buyers eye and make them stop and come in. A lot of buyers will walk by and if they see something they like will stop and pick a card or at least give feedback.

Last, but not the least, the selling process. This one is tougher than you think. I experienced that if we were too aggressive, buyers did not like it and avoided coming in. If we let them take their time reviewing the clothing from afar, we had a better chance of getting them in the booth. We also observed a lot of experienced salespeople around us and it helped us learn a lot. Take notes when you are sitting idle, which will happen for periods of time Also, ensure you wear your own clothes. Lot of people may talk to you when you are walking around the exhibition hall, it is key to always be ready to sell.

Attached are some of our pics of the booth in Vegas and NYC. It was a fantastic experience and we created great wholesale accounts and met good showrooms who will be taking our line further into the wholesale industry.

Eco-friendly fabric Bamboo

2011-01-12T07:13:00.000-08:00

For some of my Fall'11 collection I had decided to use knit bamboo fabric to create fabulous textures and garments, that are soft and luxurious but do not harm the environment. As I was putting together this collection, I realized that a lot of people do not know about the advantages of using bamboo as opposed to cotton. I think it is a great fabric that is gaining popularity all over the world and it would be a good idea to educate people about it. I am attaching a list of pro's and cons from various sources in an attempt to shed some light on this fabric.

Pro's
1. Bamboo is a plant that grows very rapidly, average of 1 foot per month. It also releases a lot more oxygen while absorbing more green house gases.
2. Because of its rapid growth, it thrives without pesticides or fertilizers. It's roots also stabilize soil and reduce erosion.
3. The fiber is strong, lightweight and wicks moisture. It is soft and shiny as silk, yet has the comfort of cotton. It helps keep cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
4. The fiber breathes well and is also shown to block 98% of UV Radiation which makes it good for active wear.
5. Bamboo also drapes and dyes well, as was proved with some of our clothing.

Cons
1. The process to convert bamboo into fiber can use harsh chemicals and bleaching that can be harmful to the environment. However, its still less harmful than the cotton, that uses heavy pesticides, or nylon/polyester fabrics that are derived from petroleum.
2. Few suppliers of fabric makes the supply volatile and prices variable. Although, with gaining popularity there is a spurt in growers and manufacturers in places like China and India.

Despite these cons, Bamboo is still a great fabric to use in all kind of textile driven industries. With its growing popularity, there is a lot of research on the way to make it more greener and effective. I strongly believe that this is going to be one of the popular fabrics in the coming seasons.

Sources:
greensham.com
greenlivinggoddess.com

Naturally dyed Hand woven wool

2011-01-03T11:41:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year!

As everyone knows, our brand Avni is all about uplifting the indigenous arts and taking them to new heights in fashion. One of our goals is to partner with the artisans on reviving their eco-friendly roots by helping them gain access to natural dyes. Many of them have already expressed interest in working with us on naturally dyeing fibers and fabrics themselves. A project we will continue to grow as more artisans express interest.

Here is one of our hand woven, Jacquard weave, wool fabric from Varanasi. Our artisans (shown weaving here) have handcrafted these for Avni so that we can naturally dye the fabrics to create a unique, rustic texture. Our wool skirt with pleats is dyed in pomegranate skin. See more of this fabric in our Fall'11 collection.

Warrior like Jewelry

2010-12-01T04:23:00.000-08:00

As always, my love for jewelry brought me on a trip to Zoya, one of my favorite boutiques in Mumbai that carries amazing clothing and accessories. They carry jewelry from some of my favorite designers like Suhani Pitte. Check out some the pieces from their store.

Embroidery- a one of a kind art form

2010-11-22T05:00:00.001-08:00

For everyone who adore and cherish the intricate art of embroidery, there is always an inherent understanding that the shawl/stole/purse or wall hanging that is purchased is most likely the only piece that exists. As I am moving more deeply into my endeavors in the fashion world, I am realizing that all embroidery is a one of a kind art form. Even work like Kantha, which has been used in our collections, is very difficult to replicate. The reason? Most of the women who make this embroidery use it as a form of expression. They like to explore their skills as a means of telling their stories and each artisan is unique in their handicraft.

This creates some problems for us in the fashion world who want to proliferate this art all over the world. Common practice of duplication is not possible and many use innovative methods to generalize designs. One such organization is Qasab in Bhuj. They help develop their artisans by providing signature cushion covers and handbags that are embroidered in variety of ways. On my visit to their office today, I saw all the women busy cutting up embroidery to create a melange of colors for an order of 800 wall hangings. "Embroidery for 800 pieces is almost impossible to execute in a short span of time", says Meenaben, one of the main organizers for the group, " We had to creatively make artwork using existing embroidered fabrics to ensure the order is executed fast". She is one of the few people in Gujarat who has been encouraging artisans to execute domestic and international orders in a timely manner in order to ensure repeat orders and economic stability.

Seeing this wonderful organization in action really made me think about the various techniques of embroidering and how we can make the fabrics more accessible and usable in the fashion industry. The only answer is to create haute couture or one of a kind lines that will be fit a select customer base. At Avni, we really want to explore this as an exclusive collection for customers that value individual freedom of expression. We also hope to move the artisans back to more environmentally friendly methods that were traditionally used such as natural dyes and organic cotton.

Natural Snakeskin?

2010-11-11T01:53:00.000-08:00

Check out this wonderful texture created by the talented people at our natural dyeing unit. Its created by using a method of tie dyeing called "rouching". The satin silk fabric is first dyed in the base color of Chukra bheda, which is a leafy green plant that looks a lot like spinach and is used for herbal remedies in Ayurveda. Once the base color is done the fabric is then tied up and dyed in a second color of pomegranate skin. The resulting combination is a wonderful snakeskin like texture that has a natural sheen because of the satin base.

Watch out for this texture in our Fall'11 Warrior Princess collection that is currently under the works.

Jacket with Scarf attached

2010-10-26T11:47:00.000-07:00

So this is one of my favorite designs that I happen to wear all the time in the early Fall/late Spring and in San Francisco (if you know how SF's perpetual fall weather feels like). I wanted to give people who follow Avni's journey to let me know what they think about a scarf attached to Jacket concept. My personal opinion is that its different yet warm and comfortable. More for hanging out in the crisp, cool air. I usually wear it when I don't have to take it off.

It's Pomegranate Skin!!

2010-10-14T13:44:00.000-07:00

For those who don't know the philosophy of our natural dyes, its all about using waste materials such as onion peel, pomegranate skin, insect secretion or herbs such as Harda, Basil. They actually don't use food that can be consumed, such as beets, or actual insects/animal dyes such as cochineal.

Enjoy one of my all time favorites and most widely used in brand Avni- pomegranate skin.This dye is very versatile and can create grays/blacks and olive green. Enjoy some of our designs featuring this gorgeous dye.

Lac- An ancient Natural Dye

2010-10-13T12:04:00.000-07:00

As natural dyes are gaining some momentum all over the globe, I am starting to realize that each designer that uses natural dyes has his/her own perspective on the colors and raw materials they use. For example, Mr.Larkin, a California based design house, uses waste from grocery stores and flowers to create colors. My suppliers use herbs and ancient techniques that have been part of Indian tradition for centuries. As I explore more into the world of natural dyes, I wanted to bring forth the first natural color that caught my attention (and not only because of its vibrant hues) and curiosity- Lac.

Lac is actually a secretion by certain insects found in Asia and Mexico. The residue is collected from the branches, then its crushed and cleaned after which it can be powdered for dyeing. It's even used for making jewelery in some cases. In ancient India, Lac was used as a dye and as a skin cosmetic. Today, a lot of synthetic options are fast replacing this ancient coloring method.

Our brand Avni uses this dye to create beautiful wine or pink colored clothing that are accentuated with the various textures that are our core signature. Enjoy some of our designs in this beautiful natural color.

My muse: The warrior princess

2010-10-11T10:40:00.000-07:00

I have been thinking about the Fall'11 collection since June of this year. Usually for me, designing is all in the head. I get a vision that usually stems from something I have seen or am nostalgic about. My Fall'11 muse is a warrior princess, almost like Lena Heady in the movie 300, but more warrior like. I started to analyze my muse, from her character, her strength and finally every aspect of her portrayal. I began the process by researching all kinds of pictures and portrayals of warrior princesses, starting from Valkyries to Cleopatra and even the movie 300 itself. Once the vision is formed, I start pretty much obsessing about every small detail. I even started thinking about making a movie that would showcase the collection in a theatrical style setting (something that is being worked currently).

After much analysis the actual designs start to take shape. I knew I wanted to play with pleats and structure this time. I was thinking about my Bharat Natyam days and how the fan in the costume has such a striking shape and look. I wanted to use the so called "fan" in different ways and forms. I spent days designing and color coordinating about 25-30 designs. Finally, my product is starting to take shape. Next step, fabrics and color finalization.

Enjoy some of the pics that have inspired the designing process.

My First Fashion Show

2010-09-13T12:29:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone,

I will always remember Sept9th 2010. It was the evening when my brand Avni was launched in a spectacular fashion show at the Liberty Hotel, Boston. Apart from anxious evenings, panic stricken days, and the usual flurry of emotions that had occupied me since I heard I was chosen to participate, it was one of my most prized events of all time.

The fashion show event was smooth and perfect to most observers, but to me it was all about fixing all the last minute problems. Fittings were done an hour before and obviously not all of my clothing is meant to fit a size0 or 00 model. My mother-in-law, Mini, was a godsend as she tacked and pinned all the extra fabric to ensure the look was perfect. Once all the clothes were perfected, the show was about to start and there I was stuck in the elevator that decided to malfunction at the last second. After much scramble and panic, I managed to be back on time to enjoy the wonderful models execute the perfect look and feel. Luckily, I did not have to worry about PR. My husband, aunt and most of our friends did a fabulous job and ensured everyone had information about the clothes and what they stand for. All in all, a huge success. Now its waiting and watching for the press and buzz to continue.

Enjoy the beautiful pics taken by Todd Lee and Dimonika Bray.

Avni launching at Liberty on Sept9th

2010-09-07T08:09:00.001-07:00

Hi everyone,

Stay tuned for the launch and fun party to follow on Sept 9th.

This road is less traveled by....

2010-08-16T21:27:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone,

So, apart from marketing and incessant travel that has become my life, everyday brings strength to one important reality. The journey of an entrepreneur is alone. This does not mean no support from friends and family. It means, no matter what, you have to believe in yourself. People will doubt your beliefs, strengths, and passion. Some over monetary issues, some over downfalls that may come along the way. Even your own family may sometimes question your decisions, the key is to stay calm and have the strength to weather each storm. The vision should always remain steady and strong, in spite of everything. The day the vision starts to waiver, that's the day your business will become very difficult. This is especially true in startup phase (as I am).

For all you starting entrepreneurs needing strength and motivation, always remember Robert Frost's famous poem:

"TWO roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth; 5

Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."

May your road truly make a difference to you and the lives you will touch.

Inspirations

2010-07-08T11:09:00.000-07:00

Hi,
Wanted to give you some beautiful pictures that have inspired and rejuvenated me over the last 10 days. These are from my trip to Alaska, and being a self made designer is all about finding those few special moments where passion and creativity flow through your soul.

My new color obsession is black and white with a splash of red. Wonder where that came from:)

The Trials and Tribulations of being an Entreprenuer

2010-06-22T10:42:00.000-07:00

Its been about 3 months since my last blog post. Now, a lot of people may wonder what happened to the travels and sartorial commentary on Indian fashion industry. The truth of the matter is, it was time to get started on my own brand of clothing that is about to launch in the U.S.

In the last 3 months, I have been getting my product and designs ready, figured business administration needs such as trademark, registration and even which accounting software to use (oh yes, a self employed person has to do everything- literally:)), got samples, networked, traveled and went through the many pitfalls of sales that I had not even imagined would be a challenge. I guess I have been busy trying to get my brand Avni of the ground.

I thought I would take a moment today to educate entrepreneurs or wanna be entrepreneurs about some trials and tribulations of starting a business. I am still going through most of these on a day to day basis, but am learning to work more efficiently as a result.

1)Working for oneself: Now, this may seem like the best thing in the world, let me tell you it is tougher than being in meetings in the corporate world all day. You have to keep your self self motivated, engaged and most importantly- not bored. Yes, you may love what you do and the vision is so clear in your head, but being by yourself all day, everyday has so many repercussions on the mind that it will take monumental efforts to get out of feeling lethargic. Take frequent strolls outside for fresh air, listen to music, use café as your “office” and most importantly keep the vision clear and in front of your mind at all times. If life gets too frustrating alone, get happy hour with friends a couple of times a week to blow off some steam.

2)The buck stops with you: You are the only one who can make a decision for your fledgling company. There are numerous times when you will question decisions and sometimes even wish you had someone else making it for you, but at the end of the day each decision you make will determine the direction and fate of your vision. (Believe me , I have begged and even fought with my husband on decisions that I felt he should help with because fear of making decisions that could be wrong is so high). No one and nothing can have more passion about your vision other than you and you have to trust that, even if the decision is wrong. Ultimately it is the learning that will help you succeed.

3)Fear of sales: Don’t ever for one second believe you will not be scared and anxious. You will be having nervous twitches and sleepless nights regarding sales. I decided to do it the easy way by just emailing people and maybe calling after (even that was a fear that made me procrastinate), but obviously with all this negative energy nothing worked. Finally, I had to haul myself out and face buyers face to face, so I started cold calling in person. It is LIBERATING. Don’t believe me? Well, how about this. Close your eyes and think that this is going to be the day that you will exchange the most wonderful positive energy with someone. Whether you will have sales or not, they will remember you and as you get better at it, will have good conversations and you will get publicity and some leads. I wear my own designs and walk into stores and it makes a huge difference to me and to them.

4)You are the one person show: Everything from printing, to accounting, to even figuring dry cleaning needs is part of the job. Being self employed is not glamorous and certainly not easy. I had to read books on trademark filing, pattern making, accounting and at the same time start thinking about my next collection all around the same time frame. Its multi-tasking on steroids and one has to be the jack of all trades to get it right. Also, if you are as anal and controlling as I am, you probably want to do everything yourself to start.

5)Breaks are important: Now, you may think you have to work extra hard for yourself because you really are on the go 24 hours a day. It’s true that there is no substitute for hard work, but breaks and stabilizing your stress and mind is as important if not more. If you are stressed out and continue working- the work will not be good and you will feel miserable. Take a break when you need to- could be middle of the day or evening or weekend. Initially, I had this constant urge to fill every minute of my day with thoughts of work and why I am not working more. Coming from a job where I had meetings non stop- even over lunch, I felt this constant need to be busy. Not a good way to be self-employed. Just as you were miserable in your job, you will be miserable as an entrepreneur and eventually lose sight of the vision and passion.

Well, this is some food for thought. As I mentioned before, I go through most of these trials on a day to day basis- but at the end of each day the thought of seeing my brand come to fruition is well worth it. :)

Korean Hand Embroidery

2010-03-22T05:57:00.000-07:00

For the last 7 days I had the opportunity to take a trip to South Korea and visit few of its beautiful cities. As always, I had to find out about sources and kinds of local hand made fabrics. I came across a Museum of Korean embroidery online and had a chance to visit on my last day at Seoul. Although, the museum itself was just a large room showcasing a small collection of embroidered fabrics, it gave little information on any of them. I did happen to buy a book from the museum that was a lot more informative and I hope to find some of these hand crafted textiles in person someday.

Disappointed but not giving up yet, I happened to come across a shop selling hand embroidered accessories called Kukjae Embroidery. The shop was very small but crowded and had very neat and pretty looking embroidery on everything from small hand held mirrors to large purses. Attached are some pics of my purchases. There was a school/workshop near the shop where all these wonderful accessories were made. Unfortunately, it was too late for me to visit the workshop and see some of the hand work in action, but I am glad I found some interesting items at the store. Maybe on my next visit to South Korea I can deep dive into hand crafts from a different culture.

Accesories at Lakme Fashion Week

2010-03-12T07:33:00.000-08:00

So continuing my rendezvous with Lakme Fashion week, I had the opportunity to check out some of the best accessories I have seen in a while. From gorgeous clutches to funky jewelry, the shows definitely took the use of accessories to a different level. Check out my purchases from two designers- Eina Ahluwalia and Suhani Pittie. Eina used a creative combination of cloth and sterling silver, while Suhani played with metal in funky ways.

More photos and descriptions on www.lakmefashionweek.co.in

Lakme Fashion Week- Mumbai

2010-03-10T00:16:00.000-08:00

Lakme Fashion week is one of the biggest events in the fashion world in Mumbai. The status, glitz, and glamor is so integral to this event, that it attracts big fashion names and Bollywood stars to participate. This time, I had the opportunity to be an observer at a few events.

My first day, I watched the Summer/Spring collections of Abdul Halder and Digvijay Singh. Both had very different styles, Halder was all about the traditional Indian clothing and bling that goes with it, while DigVijay Singh used muted colors and complex drapings. Halder showcased mainly bridal couture but also showed intricate jackets and skirts. It was all about the bright embroidery and zari work that is such an attraction for Indian consumers. Personally, this was not my style which is more simplistic. Digvijay Singh's collection was more modern and had used natural dyes to create the beautiful colors. In spite of the modern allure such as dresses, jackets and various elements- the clothing still had a very traditional base. As was seen throughout the Fashion week, Bollywood show stoppers was another common theme that designers used for publicity. It distracted me from the garments but definitely provided higher status in the media coverage. All in all, it was obviously geared for Indian markets and for a western consumer the complexity of the clothing is not very practical.

Attached are some of my favorite looks. You can check out more photos and details at www.lakmefashionweek.co.in

The Non profit world (NGO)

2010-03-05T20:06:00.000-08:00

On my travels to various artisans, especially in the state of Gujarat, I had to interact with the non-profit or as its known in India the NGO (non-government organization) world. The non-profit and artisan world intersect in various ways which is important for people trying to find or source artisans.

Some non profits handle everything for the artisans from marketing, manufacturing to providing for families. Shrujan and Kalaraksha are such examples. Both are in Kutch, Gujarat and both specialize in embroidered finished clothing and accessories. Shrujan has been working with the artisans for over 30 years and provides all kinds of perks such as transportation, food and even education for the children. They have developed the skill sets of various artisans to match high retail standards and helped gain good footing within India. The downside is that they do not allow direct interaction with the artisans in any way and control all outputs per their designs and direction. The retail store was extremely expensive and I found it hard to believe that they could actually sell large quantities at such high prices. Kalaraksha on the other hand insisted that anyone trying to source through them had to employ not only artisans that do embroidery, but also their workshop that created finished garments and accessories. For someone trying to create western clothing, this is daunting because the skill sets in the villages to create western attire is very limited. In spite of these cons the loyalty that the artisans have towards both organizations is very strong and no amount of money or fame would motivate them to leave. I experiences this first hand when the Soof embroidery artisan that I visited informed me that she cannot take up any external work unless she has free time from Kalaraksha.

There are other organizations such as Khamir, Qasab in Kutch and Pradhan in Bhagalpur that take a different approach. They want to empower their artisans to work directly with designers or fabric merchants. They will still act as middlemen to ensure timely and quality deliveries, but their work is more to push their artisans forward and not only their work. Attached is a video taken at Khamir where some of the weavers were working. They have even collaborated with designers in Europe to create recycled plastic mats and bags which is the innovative aspect that economically boosts people in the area.

What to expect while buying artisan fabrics?

2010-03-02T05:34:00.000-08:00

1) Customized look- each artisan interprets the design, fabric per their perception. It is almost impossible to find 2 designs given to 2 artisans look the same. There is usually some variation ranging from minor differences in hand woven to major differences in embroidery. This results in clothing that showcases the differences in human perception and creativity beautifully.

2) More than a materialistic addition to our daily lives. Artisans spend anywhere from few days to a year or so dedicated to creating their art. There is a connection that is unique and one that they carry with them forever. Some of them have spent a lifetime protecting their art such as Rogan, which was at risk of being extinct during partition. Being a conscious consumer will provide more richness and depth to the concept of buying.

3) A learning tool to understand rural India and the history that has passed through. A lot of the art is being created by women who put in details about their struggles and daily lives. Some of the motifs, such as in Kantha, are hundreds of years old and continue to be created in order to uphold tradition and to ensure the stories of these women are not lost.

4) Proliferating the art which is being lost in our fast world. In the age of powerlooms and fast paced manufacturing, hand weaving is fast declining and has a potential of being lost forever. Currently, Banaras has seen over 50% of its weaver population lose its craftsmanship because of the power loom threats and the economic instability of the handicraft.

5) Ethical and economic aspects. There are 220 thousand handlooms still existent in India today and they support the livelihood of a million or more. Ethically and consciously keeping this art alive preserves not only history, but helps all the artisans get economically stronger.

These are some of my perceptions and I hope to create awareness so that everyone can be empowered to consume ethically and consciously. Let me know some of your, if any.
In the meantime, enjoy some of the faces that are behind these beautiful arts.

Hand woven fabrics from Kutch

2010-02-27T00:48:00.000-08:00

The textiles and embroidery of Kutch, Gujarat are diverse and unique as you have seen through my travels. One particular art that stood out was that of hand woven wool. I had the opportunity to visit Devji Vankar, an award winning weaver whose woolen fabrics stand out for their texture and quality. He usually uses Merino wool yarn imported from Australia since the local wool is too coarse for clothing. The wool yarn is seperated using a large wodden apparatus as shown in video and dyed after for color. The last step of weaving is usually the most artistic and time consuming. Lead time for creating 5 yards can start from 7 days to 2 months depending on the intricacy of the work required. Kutch weave is very different from Banaras weave,it has a simpler look and thicker texture. The use of mirror work is also more common and is usually done by the women of the household. I can think about using these fabrics for Fall clothing such as light jackets and wrap dresses.

To give you an idea of the warmth and hospitality of Indian people, specifically in Gujarat, the artisan insisted on me having lunch with his family. It was a fun experience where I sat on the floor with the full family and enjoyed all the delicacies that were created. Even if the food is cooked for a specific number of people, the people of Gujarat will always give their guests the highest priority. It was an enjoyable and eye opening experience.

Attached is a video of his hand weaving unit and some pictures of the fabrics.

Discovering Bandhani- Part 2

2010-02-25T08:39:00.000-08:00

During my visit to Kutch I had talked about the world of Bandhani and the women who make this intricate art of tie dye come alive. I had the opportunity to meet Naushad Khatri and his family who are involved in all aspects of making Bandhani in Bhuj. As with most other artisan fabrics, the men mainly print and dye the fabric while the women take on the art of tying. Each little dot needs to be of same consistency as the one before, and some Bandhani's are so tiny that a pin point is used to lift the fabric and tie it. Naushad has just had the honor of winning the national award for Bandhani, but the award is rightfully earned by his family members as well, as he will say so himself.

One of the myths that was shattered for me was that Bandhani is dyed with natural colors and no chemicals are used as was done hundreds of years ago. This myth is still all over the internet, but unfortunately it is not true. Today the use of chemicals is highly prevalent and one will not find truly natural Bandhani anymore. One of my goals is to bring back natural dyeing to the world of Bandhani to make it truly eco-friendly and ethical.

Attached is a video of the true art of tying Bandhani. I have also attached the current printing mechanism. Historically the use of block prints was prevalent but in order to increase speed the faster approach of printing was adopted.

Wonderful world of Kantha

2010-02-23T23:27:00.000-08:00

On my first visit to the eastern state of West Bengal, I had the opportunity to visit an artisan that lived in the small town of Bolpur. Bolpur is popular for its vicinity to Shantiniketan, which is the hometown of Rabindranth Tagore, and Kantha embroidery.

"Kantha" means story telling and is supposed to have originated in Dhaka, Bangladesh when a young woman pining for her love decided to express her story on a piece of cloth. In the villages of Bengal, the women stitch together old clothes and even use the same thread from the clothes to create beautiful blankets and bed sheets. In more modern times, the typical running stitch has been used to create a variety of motifs on silk, wool and even cotton. I had the opportunity to spend a few days with Salma Khatun, who runs a large network of women that create kantha.

Salma is the daughter of national award winner Alima Khatun, who learnt the art from her mother at the age of 7. She now runs an operation of 300 artisan women who provide neat beautiful embroidery. There are usually 10 artisans that come to her house to do the work while the rest of the women are scattered all over the villages in the area. I had the opportunity to go to a couple of villages called Bhatiya and Papuri where almost all the houses had women working on Kantha in midst of very humble surroundings. All the designs and color combinations are still done by Salma herself. She prints the design on the cloth by using silver color and kerosene and then distributes to various artisans based on their skill level. Her charisma, strength and talent has definitely given Kantha some fame locally but she is still not able to market her art outside of India. There is also the issue of more economically advanced villages not willing to propagate this art as much. Amidst all these difficulties, the art of Kantha is still living on with the help of these strong women artisans.

Attached are some pics and video of the trip and of the beautiful, humble world of Kantha.

The making of silk- from sericulture to fabric.

2010-02-20T09:17:00.001-08:00

Silk industry in India is second to China and has a lot of interesting aspects. On my visit to Delhi I stopped by to see an organization called Eco Tasar. Eco Tasar is part of a non profit organization called Pradhan and mainly sells hand woven silk fabrics. I met Khitish, who had a wealth of knowledge about India's silk industry.

India is one of the only countries that grows all four types of silk in the area- Mulberry (the most common), Ari (usually has little sheen), Tasar (that grows wild), and Muga (gold like sheen and very rare). Pradhan's charter is to empower village folk in northern and eastern India, mainly Bihar, Chattisgarh, Jharkand, and West Bengal to be self sufficient agricultural entrepreneurs.

The whole process starts with the life of the butterfly that emerges from the cocoon. The life cycle of this butterfly is 72 hours within which is has to lay its eggs. The tribal in the area put the impregnated females in a small covered earthen pot and lets it lay its eggs and die in the pot. The female is then examined for any diseases to ensure the eggs are viable. The eggs are put on a tree in the farm area which is covered with a net for protection. Once the caterpillars emerge, they feed on the trees and after a period of 20-30 days start spinning their own cocoons which are sold in the market. These cocoons are bought by a women's co-operative that spins the yarn. Pradhan has developed these women to spin yarn and earn money during their down time from farming. The women make all the decisions for their organization, from pricing to profit sharing. They also decide their own working hours per their convenience. Once the yarn is spun, Eco Tasar takes over with weaving of the fabric which happens in Bhagalpur, Bihar.

Attached are some pics that were given to me by Eco Tasar showing the work done by Pradhan in empowering villagers through various parts of the process of making silk

Banaras Silk Weaving

2010-02-18T21:51:00.000-08:00

Varanasi (Banaras) is known for its exquisite silk sarees and complex woven techniques. This crowded, religious town has faced some tough times keeping this craft alive. There have been stories of suicide, starvation and desperation that was faced by the weavers over the last decade. The rise of power looms and the reduction in demand has caused a variety of economic problems. I had the opportunity to meet a wholesaler, Niyaz, who is trying to keep this art alive by promoting it aggressively domestically and internationally.

Attached is a video of the process of weaving silk. The design is first punched on cardboard as seen in the first part of the video. Each warp/weft intersection is punched to ensure accurate measurement and quick weaving. The second part of the video shows the use of these holed cardboard pieces. The pit handloom (rare and seen only in museums in the western world) picks up the warp threads into the selected holes and creates the design with every movement of the loom. The weft threads are passed through by the weaver prior to movement of the loom as seen in the video. I have also attached some photos of the fabrics and sarees created by these weavers. Most of the complex work is done with silk and gold thread (zari).

After talking to the weavers and Niyaz, I was really sad to hear the various issues that are still faced. The next generation of weavers are unwilling to pick up this art because it is not economically lucrative. The government sees the teaching of children as a violation of child labor and do not encourage them to learn this art. My own opinion is that this is a grey area where children of weaver families should be encouraged to learn the art without risk of abuse. It is like learning painting or sewing which is generally taught at a young age to nurture creative talent. The demand for power loom fabric is growing fast and currently both handloom and powerloom have 50% of the market. In a nutshell, the future of this art is bleak and something drastic needs to be done to ensure it does not die with the current generation of weavers. I am definitely looking to do my part by creating awareness in the Western world. Food for thought for all of you reading this- How do we keep this art alive?

Rogan Art

2010-02-16T06:10:00.000-08:00

Rogan art is a rare craft that is not well known even in India. Because of its rare qualities, its practiced by only one family in India and they reside in Nirona village in Gujarat. Most of the other artisans have lost their art as it was not passed on during partition or lost from generation to generation. Rogan art is currently the bread earner for a family of Khatris. Gufurbhai Khatri is the head of this family and he has kept the art alive by ensuring his entire family learns and practices his life's work. He is a National award winner and is currently in the process of opening a school that teaches Rogan art to children from different families. He has not marketed his creativity through any distribution channels so I feel fortunate enough to have met him, just by chance.

Attached is a video of some examples of this art form. The paint that is used is hand pounded castor oil that is dried and turned into paste with different colors added to it. The painting is done with an iron rod and the artist holds the cloth in order to ensure the correct shape and symmetry. Rogan art done on fabric can withstand weather and hand washing. The color is not going to faint as I saw in many examples at the artist's house.

Lifestyle of Hand Embroidery- Part 2- Soof Karigari

2010-02-15T02:38:00.000-08:00

Soof embroidery was introduced into Kutch from Pakistan. Pakistan shares a border with Gujarat and there is an influx of people from both sides that has shaped the culture and arts of the land. Soof is practiced by a handful of communities and the art seems to be rare and dying because demand for these products has reduced significantly since the introduction of machine embroidery and printing. However, there is an organization called Kalaraksha that is trying to help artisans sell their art in the form of clothes, stoles or accessories so that the art is not lost as future generations move on to more economically lucrative trades. I was fortunate enough to meet a family of Soof artisans through this organization. The mother daughter team has been practising this art for generations and they are trying to pass on their knowledge to other members of the community.

Soof embroidery is extremely difficult and requires good geometric and artistic talent. The artist starts from the back of the fabric and creates the motif without any prior prints from either their own creative talent or from memory. The motif is created by counting the warps and wefts of the weave. I have attached a video of the daughter, Varsha, creating a small example of symmetric triangles. At the end of the video you will see examples of beautiful work done by her. One expert mentioned to me that Soof is so rare and beautiful that it is worth any price that the artisan asks for. Some of these pieces have taken over 6 months to complete. As always, housework comes first so the artisan practices the art in her free time. Personally, this was my absolute favorite kind of work not only because of its value, but because it was neat and had a modern appeal that other traditional embroideries lack.

The Lifestyle of hand embroidery- Part One

2010-02-12T04:31:00.000-08:00

On my 3rd day in the wonderful area of Kutch, I decided to venture into the villages to see the work and lifestyle of the artisans. I started roughly 60 miles north of Bhuj close to the Indo-Pak border at a village named Hodka. As I entered the village, I was greeted by a bunch of small children and young girls all giggling and happy. The children were interested in what sweets I had got for them. Apparently, many tourists stop by with sweets and enjoy capturing the life of the village.

Initially I filmed two girls Jayva and Neeta, both probably 14 or 15 years old, doing embroidery that will probably take them 2-3 months to finish. The women in this village start doing embroidery when they are 7-8 years old. They don't get an education and are expected to do housework and embroidery only. The men of the houses do the marketing and selling of the finished products that range from purses, jewelry to quilts and wall hangings. The work is laborious and usually starts with a plain unprinted cloth on which the women create motifs from their experiences and everyday life. There is no prior print or design given. Once a woman is married she is expected to take her work to her husband's house where he will sell her products and get money for the family. What blew me away was how these artistic and creative women manage their homes (cooking, cleaning and children) as well as doing embroidery during their breaks that range from 5-7 hours.

The second part of the video is of Komaben and her family. She is the neatest and most talented artist in the family and tries to do as much embroidery as possible. These women seemed happy and content, contrary to the harshness of their lifestyle. I guess ignorance is bliss in some ways:). The two embroideries shown are called Kharek and Pako. Enjoy the video.

Artisan Organizations of Bhuj

2010-02-11T07:50:00.000-08:00

I used all day today to visit various organizations that promote and preserve artisan work in Kutch. They work with variety of textiles, embroidery and some involve other crafts such as beading and woodwork.

First stop was an artisan park that is in the form of a large village which is meant to be a one stop shop for the various arts of Kutch. It is called Hiralaxmi Memorial Craft park which is about 20-30 mins from Bhuj. At first glance I was not quite sure where I was as I had expected to see lots of tourists and artisans. On the contrary, the park was empty barring a few local tourists like me and most of the artisans were not to be seen. My friend and guide mentioned the artisans not being economically satisfied with the set up, which is why a lot of huts were empty. I hid my disappointment but I did manage to see some hand embroidered purses, beaded jewelry, as well as Kharad which is a dying art of weaving camel and other local wool into carpets. Kharad is typical to the area and the weavers create beautiful geometric patterns as they weave. The artisan Dayabhai is one of the very few families practicing this art anymore. I almost picked his black and white rug which was stunning and had no artificial colors. I also happened to see an example of Mashru weaving which is only done in Gujarat. The weavers blend colorful cotton and wool yarns to create a typical striped print that is done on a pit loom. It is mostly worn by women as blouses under sarees.

Check out the video showing the embroidered purses,beaded jewelry (artisan Meena in background), Kharad carpet and artisan Dayabhai, and Mashru weaving handloom and sample.

I also visited Shrujan, Khamir and Qasab which are organizations driving the development and preservation of textile arts. Stay tuned for more details on them.

Vidoe Quality

2010-02-10T20:26:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

Please bear with me on the quality of the video. Since I am currently in a small town, the internet connection is not the greatest. I will upload higher quality video once I am in Ahmadabad in a few days.

Discovering Bandhani (Tie and Dye)- Part One

2010-02-10T08:23:00.000-08:00

Bandhani is the art of tie and dye particular to the regions of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Since my early age I have been using fabrics tied and dyed in a vivid display of colors for a variety of traditional clothing. Tie-dying has a long history in India where the technique is used in many variations on a wide range of fabrics, from course cotton to fine silk. For those of you not familiar with Bandhani, it is a special art form mainly practiced by women even today. The women artisans will laboriously tie the fabric into small knots using cotton thread. The knots can be widely placed or can form intricate patterns on the fabric. The knots are then covered with wax and the entire fabric is dyed in the color of choice. The knots will retain its white color that helps create beautiful white designs.

The finest Bandhani is usually from Kutch, which is why my first stop was at the city of Mandvi. Mandvi is a quaint little shipping town with a beautiful beach and rich textile industry. I visited a Bandhani manufacturing unit and shop called Khatri Ibrahim Siddik and Co. (all Bandhani fabrics are usually manufactured by Khatris). Attached is a video that was shot at this shop showcasing Bandhani prior to dyeing so you can see the hand tied knots prior to dyeing, as well as the look of the design post dyeing when the fabric is first untied. The identity of the true artisan, the women laboring on tieing knots, is strictly hidden. It is my goal to go find them if I can in my few days here. Stay tuned:)

Jewelry from Himachal and Lac from Jaipur

2010-02-04T23:40:00.000-08:00

Today I am bringing to you a different element of fashion-jewelry. Jewelry is also one of my passions and I love to buy unique pieces that not only stand out, but also offer stories and deeper connections.

Attached are photographs of jewelry from 2 different artisans in India. The necklaces are made in Himachal Pradesh by women who emulate various tribal and Tibetan designs to make beautiful and unique pieces. This art is being promoted by a non-profit organization called Manushi who wants to help economically empower women by encouraging them to make jewelry at home as they look after their children. I fell in love with the beaded necklaces and some stunning silver sets.

The bangles are made from Lac. Lac is a resinous substance that is secreted by a female insect on specific trees such as soapberry and acacia. The substance is melted, dyed and molded into variety of forms. This craft is practised in mainly Northern India. I picked this from an artisan from Jaipur, Rajasthan who has been practicing the art of making lac jewelry for seven generations. The pieces I picked are pretty modern which is more my taste. However, there were a variety of traditional bangles, necklaces and even earrings.

Art of Warli

2010-02-04T03:21:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

Its been a long break, but I have been in search of various cultural arts that can be showcased in different ways within the fashion industry- be it in garments or accessories.

Today, I wanted to bring to you the art of Warli painting which has been in India for over 1200 years (some people believe its been around since 2500 BC). Warli painting is the tradition of the Warlis who are tribal folk from Maharashtra (India). Traditionally, the women of this tribal group would make delicate geometric drawings, based on their everyday lives, on the walls of their mud huts. Powdered rice would be used as the coloring agent and thin reed like sticks were used as pens. In recent times it is the men who practice this art form. Currently, the paintings are mainly drawn in white on paper smeared with cow-dung paste.The geometric patterns and detailing is very unique and has evolved to be more intrinsic and labor intensive. The Warlis have also expanded their art onto cloth, from wall hangings to beautiful sarees and scarves.

In the fashion world one can visualize these beautiful graphics as replicated prints or even original paintings on cloth (which is very time consuming and logistically difficult). The hope is to keep this art alive by proliferating it into the western world.

Attached are some photos of Warli art that I picked up at an artisan exhibition held in Mumbai. The pictures include both cloth and paper examples of the art.

Manufacturing of garments in India

2010-01-18T02:39:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

After a 2 week hiatus mainly for some cultural travels to Egypt and family visits within India, I am back with a video of a typical garment manufacturing unit in India. Most employees learn their skills on the job and work in a room with various machines and tables. As seen in this video there are roughly 10 sewing machines, a long table for the pattern maker, cutter and material handler. The patterns are all stored after labeling and recording by hanging them on the side of the wall closest to the pattern maker. Contrary to the busy environment, most patterns, materials and finished clothing are well managed. They also have a mannequin and a pressing table to ensure correct sizing and finish. The environment is comfortable and employees are encouraged to take frequent breaks for tea and food. They also have some music on (as heard in video) to be relaxed and work more effectively. They are times when they are required to work for 15-18 hours to meet deadlines in which case food and/or overtime is always provided. Contrary to all the "sweat shops" and child labour stories that are popular in the western world, this is more the reality of wide scale manufacturing in India.

Let me know what you think.

2010-01-03T04:11:00.001-08:00

Photos of different natural dyed fabrics done by the expert in the department- Renuka a high school graduate who has perfected the art of natural dyeing.

Off to a different exotic location- Egypt. See you in 10 days!

Natural Dyeing and the Urban artisan

2010-01-02T22:06:00.000-08:00

Happy 2010 to all! Over the last two days I have been interacting with the people of Adiv exports, a company that manufactures garments and naturally dyed fabrics. What amazed me most were the employees who have had no formal training or even an education beyond high school, creating beautiful fabrics and garments whose quality was similar to any designer clothing we see in the Western world today. Truly, I would call them the "urban artisan" since their skills are unique and originating from hard work and inherent talent.

Natural dyeing is an Eco-friendly concept that has been gaining popularity in recent times. At Adiv, the dyes are made with recycleable waste such as pomegranate skins, herbal plants and flowers that have been disposed in large volumes by the numerous temples in India. Adiv also experiments with pegs, threads and various tie dyeing methodologies to create unique looks with their ecofriendly dyes.

Attached is a video of the creation of a fabric dyed with pomegrante skin in two different ways-1) Attaching pegs 2) Rouching (tieing the fabric with thread)

Day 1 in Mumbai India

2009-12-30T20:27:00.000-08:00

First day back in India is always an interesting experience. After a late arrival and almost sleeping most of the day, I decided to venture into one of the elite country clubs of Bombay where my parents have a membership.

I wore an asymmetrical cotton tunic with sequins and some denim capris. The tunic is an interesting shape and I found it on my last trip to India at a boutique known as Cottons. Fabulous place for someone looking for a unique, comfortable clothing that uses Indian fabrics and prints to create beautiful tunics, skirts and even traditional Indian sarees.

I did not have much luck finding anything intriguing at the club. The clothes are becoming more and more western with the upper class, its difficult to distinguish between them and any other western country. However, I did get to raid my mother's closet and pick out some interesting concoctions. Check out the yoga pants, apparantly a rage in Europe and some interesting sarees and purses made of unique silks and with traditional embroidery.

A New Beginning

2009-12-27T06:16:00.000-08:00

Avni is a vision emerging from fusion of two feelings, passion for clothing and nostalgia for my culture. I started to think about various cultural arts that I was exposed to growing up in India and wondered why they are not known and sought after in the western world. There were textiles that were unique in so many ways, from embroidery, natural dyes to the art of weaving that varies from state to state.

With curiosity burning inside me I started researching on the fashion industry and unique textile forms with full fervor along with designing clothes that would help capture and "coalesce" the magical elements of two different worlds. This blog's intent is to take all the fashionista's, culture lovers, and anyone with passion for learning on a journey full of unique textiles, clandestine cultures and artistic lifestyles.